Delmonte, the Italian restaurant that has taken over the storied King & Godfree corner on Lygon Street in Carlton, has earned a score of 14 out of 20 in the Good Food Guide, with reviewers praising its crowd-pleasing menu, welcoming atmosphere and smart use of the building's rich culinary heritage.
The venue marks the second major overhaul of the landmark corner site, which for generations served Melbourne as a beloved grocer and purveyor of Italian smallgoods. The new incarnation channels that legacy directly onto the plate, with a menu that feels as though those storied shelves of produce have been reimagined as dishes.
What's on the Menu at Delmonte
The food offering at Delmonte spans a broad sweep of Italian-inspired fare, anchored by an extensive antipasti selection that takes in charcuterie, cheeses and dips. The snacking options are a highlight, among them a crispy fried zucchini entrée — oily, fun and satisfying — balanced with chilli heat and a cooling yoghurt accompaniment.
Larger cuts of meat are where the kitchen truly distinguishes itself. A pork costoletta — breaded, fried to a crackling exterior and moist within — is flagged as a must-order, with reviewers noting it is generous enough to share comfortably between three or more diners. It is the kind of dish that anchors a table.
Pasta is well represented, with dishes such as calamarata with prawn, clams, calamari and chilli appearing on the menu alongside pasta fritte served with parmesan fonduta and culatta, a style of dry-cured prosciutto. Vitello tonnato is also available, with the veal sourced from Donati's butcher, located directly across the road — a neat nod to the neighbourhood's Italian food culture.
Dessert options include gelati supplied by neighbouring gelateria Pidapipo, keeping the local connections firmly intact.
The Room: Familiar Yet Refined
Inside, Delmonte wears its ambitions lightly. The dining room is dressed in creamy, sandy tones with caramel leather banquettes and warm wooden tables. A long zinc bar provides additional seating and sets the tone for a drinks-forward experience — martinis are very much part of the picture here.
The overall atmosphere has drawn comparisons to the warmth of a well-regarded former Melbourne wine room, evoking a similar sense of relaxed conviviality without tipping into stuffiness. A red neon sign now marks the Lygon Street corner, signalling the venue's arrival to passersby.
The restaurant has been described as a modernised take on the kind of big, open, all-are-welcome eating houses that have historically defined Lygon Street — delivering broad appeal in a setting that feels considered but never intimidating.
Context: A Lygon Street Landmark Reinvented
The King & Godfree building occupies a significant place in Melbourne's food history, long associated with Italian groceries and smallgoods. Delmonte's arrival represents the site's second substantial reinvention, and the new kitchen appears to have taken that responsibility seriously, leaning into the building's identity rather than erasing it.
The hanging cured meats visible within the space serve as a visual reminder of what the corner once was, while the contemporary menu looks firmly forward. The sourcing of produce from nearby businesses such as Donati's butcher reinforces a sense of neighbourhood continuity that sits well in this stretch of Carlton.
Verdict
With a Good Food Guide score of 14/20, Delmonte positions itself confidently among Carlton's Italian dining options. It is not a destination for quiet, intimate meals — the scale and energy of the room suggest otherwise — but for groups after generous, well-executed Italian food in a space that feels both lively and considered, it delivers convincingly. The pork costoletta alone is worth the visit; bring company and an appetite.
